For the love of BMO

Andersen Bakery: sampling the good life

Visiting Andersen Bakery on a weekday is a wildly different experience to visiting on the weekend. On the weekend, you’ll find a long queue wrapped along the pavement, gently shifting to accommodate passing pedestrians. There’s a certain charm about the weekend bustle at Andersen. A camaraderie with your fellow queuers - typically a mix of locals and tourists - who wait with a simmering anticipation.

My recent visit, though, was on a grey Tuesday morning where I was able to march right up to the counter, pausing briefly to admire the selection of intricate, colourful cakes in the glass case.

I discovered Andersen Bakery with a friend of mine some years ago and, despite never living especially close to it, it quickly became a regular favourite. Some of my fondest memories are anchored in a ritual that my husband and I had: a short run from our home to Andersen bakery, chased by a black coffee and a BMO and then often a sweet pastry to share (of which Andersen’s caramel croissant has been hard to beat). We’d sit in the sun, buzzing with endorphins from our run and the treats in front of us, and marvel at our good fortune: “man, how lucky are we to live here and be able to eat things this good”. I’d have this deep, content feeling that, for me, this is the good life.

That same feeling came back on this visit. I carried my coffee and bun out towards the harbour at Islands Brygge and perched on the edge of the grass - soaking in the calm of the sea and watching people taking a dip in the swim area.

I tried not to feel awkward about munching my breakfast while a naked man towelled off, and instead focused on a British gentleman loudly summoning the courage to jump from the high diving board.

Onto the BMO

Andersen’s Hiroshima Landbolle is a popular bun choice and understandably so. Its firm exterior gives a light crunch as you bite into it, followed by a delightfully springy interior. The bun holes are filled with fresh, slightly salted butter so you get these delicious pockets of butter in most bites. Each side of the bun is topped with a thick layer of Gammel Knas, dotted with decadent white salt crystals. Other bun options include the sourdough (this is my husband’s go-to and it’s also excellent - a bit more dense and chewy) and the staff said that the seeded bun is also a popular choice for BMOs.

Taking a sip of my now-less-molten coffee, I was surprised to notice how the flavour of my coffee (an Americano) changed after taking a bite of the cheese bun. After the taste of the tangy cheese, the coffee tasted far sweeter with notes of vanilla. A reminder of why this pairing has stood the test of time and stays such a staple in Denmark.

I was reminded of the many times we have brought friends and family to Andersen Bakery. Lovingly inviting our loved ones into a treasured ritual and delighting in their response. Our friends in Amsterdam were so blown away by the Andersen BMO, that we typically keep them posted any time we visit there.

Where to sit

A word on where to sit: Andersen does have indoor seating - with warm wood and soft Japandi-style furnishings - but the seating is limited and in high demand during the winter months. That said, we somehow manage to get a seat most times we visit, even on busy winter days. If you’re lucky you might even nab the cosy lounge chairs, found upstairs tucked in the corner by the bookcase.

If the weather is nice, however, then I strongly recommend venturing outside. Wander past Andersen’s outdoor seating area - they have some green tables and chairs you can use, but the view is a bit uninspiring - and head instead towards the harbour. You’ll find grassy areas and wooden benches where you can watch the world go by and indulge in some people-watching. This is hands-down the best place to enjoy your Andersen BMO.

The verdict

Andersen will stay a firm favourite in this household, especially on a sunny day. The BMO is genuinely excellent: a crisp, springy bun, those pockets of salted butter, a thick layer of Gammel Knas. The coffee is solid and quietly transformed alongside the bun. Enjoying this trusty pairing by the waterside at Islands Brygge, with the sun on your face, is about as close to the good life as a bakery trip gets.

Pastry selection at Andersen Bakery
Pastry selection at Andersen Bakery

Originally published on Substack.